Cashmere is a material that needs no introduction - it has a reputation for softness, luxury, and quality. But if you’ve ever wondered why some cashmere feels more refined, lasts longer, or commands a higher price, the answer is in the details you rarely see. Before investing, it’s worth understanding what separates a truly exceptional piece from one that looks great on first wear, but won't last you a lifetime.
Cashmere is more than just soft
The appeal of cashmere isn’t just that the first touch is unmistakably soft, as the real magic lies in its performance. Fine cashmere offers remarkable warmth for its weight, meaning you can enjoy serious insulation without bulk. It breathes naturally, adapts to body temperature, and - when made well - it keeps its shape through years of wear.
What’s more, high-quality cashmere doesn’t just stay soft - it improves over time. As the fibres settle, the surface develops a gentle "bloom", and the knit gains a character that no synthetic wool can replicate. A good cashmere jumper should become more yours with time - a luxury that improves the more it’s worn. That is, of course, with the correct level of care.
Spotting cashmere quality
Not all cashmere is created equal. Every garment starts with raw fibre, and this is where quality is either made or lost. The best cashmere comes from the fine undercoat of the Hircus goat, where fibres are naturally fine and long. The longer the fibre, the smoother and stronger the resulting yarn - fewer loose ends mean less pilling and a more refined finish.
Fibre diameter plays its part too. Very fine fibres (around 14-16 microns) feel featherlight on the skin, but if they’re too short or poorly processed, they can lose resilience. This is why our suppliers pay close attention to both length and fineness, not just softness at first touch.
There’s also the matter of sorting. True luxury cashmere is painstakingly dehaired by hand to remove coarser guard hairs. It’s a slow, meticulous process that yields less material, but far superior texture and longevity.
And while some blends combine cashmere with silk or fine merino to add drape or strength, transparency is key. If you're shopping for 100% cashmere, you need to know that's what you're buying.
Spinning, Knitting, and the Craft You Don’t See
Once the fibre leaves the herder’s hands, the spinner and knitter take over - and their work defines how the garment feels and performs. The way the yarn is twisted determines its character. Too loose, and it will stretch and shed; too tight, and it loses softness. A skilled spinner finds that perfect middle ground - a firm yet elastic yarn that feels plush but resists wear.
The ply (how many strands are twisted together) also matters. Two-ply cashmere is often the sweet spot: balanced, durable, and beautifully smooth. Four-ply knits are ideal for winter, while single-ply yarns suit lighter layers.
Then comes the knit itself. A dense, compact structure gives a reassuring weight and helps the garment keep its shape. Looser, open knits can look relaxed and airy, but they’re more prone to stretching if handled carelessly.
Finishing touches - the ribbing, hems, and seams - may seem minor, but they tell you everything about a maker’s standards. Tight, even ribs hold shape. Smooth seams prevent stress points. In cashmere, those details decide whether your jumper will last one season or ten.
Understanding responsible cashmere
“Sustainable cashmere” has become a fashionable phrase, but genuine sustainability comes down to transparency. Quality producers can tell you exactly where their fibre comes from and how the goats are cared for.
Responsible herding is essential: overgrazing damages fragile grasslands and jeopardises future harvests. That’s why suppliers like ours are aligned with the Responsible Cashmere Standard or Good Cashmere Standard matter; these certifications ensure fair treatment for both animals and herders.
Ethical dyeing and finishing are another sign of integrity. Eco-friendly dyes and closed-loop water systems protect the fibre’s natural softness while reducing environmental impact. In short, true luxury respects its origins.
Fit is as important as components
Cashmere’s quality lies not only in how it feels, but in how it’s shaped. Because the fibre is naturally elastic yet delicate, well-considered design ensures it moves with you rather than against you.
A properly fitted shoulder prevents stretching and distortion, while carefully balanced ribbing helps the garment hold its form. Necklines deserve the same attention: a roll-neck, for instance, should stay snug without feeling constrictive. Even body length plays a role - too long, and folds can form; too short, and it becomes difficult to style well.
What decides the price of cashmere?
We’re all so used to consumer culture, which makes it easy to assume that price is just about branding, but true cashmere quality is expensive to produce. Only a few ounces of useable fibre can be combed from each goat every year. Sorting, spinning, and knitting by hand take time and skill, and the rejection rate for top-grade cashmere can be high.
Add sustainable dyeing and washing - gentler, slower processes that preserve the fibre’s integrity - and the cost begins to make sense. The difference, though, is visible and tangible: superior drape, long-lasting shape, and unmistakable softness that endures season after season.
Looking after cashmere
Cashmere rewards a little care with many years of service. Fold rather than hang your knits to prevent stretching, and rest them between wears so the fibres can recover. You can read our detailed guide to cashmere care here.
Pilling, when it occurs, isn’t a sign of poor quality - it’s the surface fibres settling. A few minutes with a cashmere comb restores a smooth finish. Treated kindly, a good jumper becomes better with age, not worse.
How to make sure you’re buying wisely
If you’re buying in person, trust your hands as much as the label: the feel should be dense yet supple, with a natural weight and resilience. If you’re buying online, look for brands that explain where their fibre comes from and how their garments are made.
In doing so, you’ll end up with an investment in comfort, craftsmanship, and longevity. And once you’ve owned a truly exceptional cashmere garment, you’ll never mistake it for anything less.
Shop our men’s cashmere range
We stock a wide selection of quality men’s cashmere garments, from trousers and jumpers all the way to overcoats. Browse our full range of cashmere here, and if you’re in the Bournemouth area, call into our shop to experience it first-hand.
